Author: Chris Kimball
Publication: Hyperion Books, 2010
Genre: nonfiction, cooking
My Star Rating: 3 Stars out of 5 = It's Okay
Summary Statement: I'm a Fan of Chris Kimball's but This is Uneven and Choppy, Dry and Sometimes Just Uninteresting
I'm a fan of Chris Kimball's and it pains me to write a review for this book of 3 stars = It’s Okay. I have learned a lot from reading Cook's Illustrated over the last fifteen years since I first discovered it. I had high hopes for this book but it was a letdown.
I am a home cook and home baker and canner of preserves. I cook from scratch five or six days a week and eat a diet of almost all whole foods. I enjoy reading cookbooks and like to learn about cooking history. Another reason I thought I'd like the book is that my grandmother grew up on Cape Cod not far from Boston having been born at the turn of the century, and her main cookbook used throughout her life was Fannie Farmer's Boston Cooking School cookbook (which is well soiled and falling apart and resides with my other cookbooks). My grandmother also used an old-fashioned cook stove for many years in the first half of her life. I was curious what FANNIE'S LAST SUPPER would teach me and what it may reveal about daily living in the time that my grandmothers were homemakers. I was mostly hoping that it would make a fun escape read for enjoyment.
I was disappointed that Kimball has such a low opinion of Fannie Farmer. I got sick of hearing it: how he looks down upon her for using cooking methods that he feels are inferior compared to what he knows and does a hundred years later.
I found the book's pace uneven. Some parts were much more interesting than others. Some parts were beyond dry to the point of being boring. It seems some topics were included to be thorough but they were uninteresting. I understand wanting to paint a complete picture or wanting to include all the information he took the time to research but the fact is sometimes it’s just uninteresting and maybe should have been edited out. He arranged the chapters by food courses but didn't always connect with the food or recipe that was supposed to be the focus of the chapter, which resulted in a poor flow or gave a choppy or disorganized sense to the book. I had hoped it would be a page turner but I found it real work to continue reading.
Sometimes great lengths were taken to be authentic to the point of ridiculousness while other times something that didn't seem that big of a deal was pushed to the side in favor of using the modern alternative. I do not take issue with Kimball over-analyzing or over-thinking as that is something I appreciate about his work. Some of the most interesting parts were when an old food was of different composition that meant finding an equivalent in 2010 is impossible so adaptations had to be made (i.e. venison roast).
I would like to respond to his note about the currant jelly recipe. Kimball says leaving the stems on per Fannie Farmer's recipe didn't improve taste. Why would anyone think it would improve taste? As a home canner, I feel the reason Farmer left the stems on was just to save prep time, just as when making applesauce or apple jelly we cook the apple with the core and seeds and stem and skins on it to save time, and then strain all that out after cooking. When I make crab apple jelly I do the same thing, leave the stems on, it saves prep time and makes the use of every last bit of the edible parts of the fruit. I never would think that leaving the stem, core and seeds in a food during the cooking time was done to enhance the flavor.
The mock turtle soup chapter was a bit much. I also was a bit traumatized by the lobster killing technique section and will surely feel guilt the next time I put a live lobster into a pot of boiling water, which Kimball portrays as being traumatic to the lobster but the alternative of using the knife killing method is not something I feel confident to begin doing.
The entire premise of putting on a gourmet meal for celebrities was of no interest to me since I’m not a celebrity worshipper.
I enjoyed the musings at the end of the Dinner Party chapter and some thoughts in Requiem for Fannie and wondered if what I was looking for more of in the book was ramblings of that nature: the things we do for pleasure, we want to work but not too hard or too much, and the idea that "cooking transcends dinner it is a thing unto itself". What Kimball is trying to say is that the process of cooking can be an enjoyable pursuit in and of itself. Many of us enjoy the process of cooking and baking perhaps more than the eating. There is something satisfying about making jam at home with strawberries I picked myself even when I have access to less expensive factory made preserves.
To sum it up, I found the book uneven and not always engaging. It didn’t fulfill my hopes for a fun escape read. Again I am disappointed in feeling that. I respect Chris Kimball so I find no joy in writing this not glowing review.
A book that fulfills more of what I was looking for is the writing style in TWAIN’S FEAST by Andrew
Disclosure: I received an advance review copy of both books mentioned in this post from the Amazon Vine program. I was not paid to write this review or to blog it. For my blog's full disclosure statement see the link at the top of my blog's sidebar.


